Sunday, January 15, 2012

Barbera and Zinfandel Exploration ~Session 7

This month we continued our varietal explorations with Barbera and Zinfandel. We paired these two up this month because they each have a unique history in California!




Barbera friendly AVA’s:
Originally hailing from Italy, this grape is the opposite of our last two varietals, in that it grows best inland, where there is a warmer climate. The Barbera grape grows best in less fertile soil so the yields can be kept in check. Barbera likes to grow and grow, but large yields often diminish the quality. To help keep good quality, Barbera needs to be tended and pruned often. Grown in the right environment, Barbera can produce good fruit characteristics, acidity, color and tannin structure. The top region for Barbera is in Piedmont, Italy and of all the varietals from that region, it is the most successful here in California. Popular regions for Barbera are Sonoma County, the Central Valley, and the Sierra Foothills (Amador County).

Flavor Profile of Barbera
Trivia Fact!...A little history of Barbera in California.
Barbera was first planted in 1885 at the Italian Swiss Colony at Asti in Sonoma County. From the stories I’ve heard, it was grown by farmers, and made into field blends (a mixture of different varietals planted in the same vineyard). Barbera was originally thought of as a good blending grape for its low tannins and high acidity, helping to create a softer and more balanced wine. Before the 1970’s it was rare to see single-varietal Barberas, as we do today.

General Barbera Tasting Profile…
• Low in tannins, soft tannins
• High in acidity, yet usually pleasing
• Medium to full bodied
• Deep ruby color, usually has a pink rim
• Fruit driven, robust with intense, but well rounded fruitiness
• Juicy berry flavors, plum, spice, cherries
• If overripe, it can have a raisony flavors.

2007 Barbera d'alba Rocca Felice- 13% alcohol:
• Intense, ruby red color
• Cherry, raspberry and vanilla notes.
• Silky, supple palate
• Delicate and light bouquet
• Spicy finish
• Aged in oak casts for 10 months
Notes From Our Group: Aroma: Earth, dust, "garage". Palate: fizz, lively acidity, high alcohol, medium bodied, pleasant finish, not too complex. **As expected, this Italian wine was not a favorite with the group until we began eating our snacks. We have often found that European wines do not appeal to our palate alone, but when paired with food are quite lovely.

2009 Palmina Santa Barbara County- 14.6% alcohol
• Bright purple in color
• Black and blue fruits on a highly fragrant nose
• Deep cherry and blueberry flavors complemented by notes of candied violets and cracked pepper.
• Blackberry, mulberry, cranberry, cherry and plum fruit notes
• Under currants of sage, rosemary and chocolate that cover over to the finish
• Earth and toast notes
• Good length and cherry notes last
Notes From Our Group: Aroma: Welcoming, complex, "smells like home", black cherry, plum. Palate: Firm, yet soft tannins, cherry on the finish. Yum...We liked this one!

Zinfandel friendly AVA's:
Zinfandel: California’s Signature Grape

Although many consider Zinfandel a California native, there has been much controversy about its heritage. In 2001, DNA profiling of an ancient and almost extinct varietal in Croatia, called Crljenak Kastelanski, was indeed found to be Zinfandel. This determined that Croatia was the birthplace of what we know of as California Zinfandel today. How did Zinfandel get to California? Zinfandel was imported and originally grown on the East Coast, but made its way to California with the Italian Immigrants headed west for Gold Country in 1849. It flourished in our dry climate and was originally considered “a low-priced, honest, Italian-American working man’s wine”. As we now know, all that has changed.

In need of a long growing season, Zinfandel does best in warm, but not hot regions. It also does best growing on hillsides, where the soil is well-drained. This helps to prevent bunch rot (making a wine taste almost moldy, and a considerable loss of fruit.) Premier growing areas for Zinfandel include Dry Creek Valley and Lodi, however other areas are beginning to get a name for their Zinfandel. Paso Robles, Russian River, and even Napa Valley are producing excellent Zinfandel.

So what’s the deal with Old Vine Zinfandel?
Old Vines are considered to be 50-80 years old. Praised for surviving phylloxera (microscopic insects that feed on the roots and leaves of vines, and depending on the strain, leave deformations and fungus on the grapes), and prohibition, old vines are considered to have smaller yields, which may produce a more concentrated, complex and pleasing wine. Old Vine Zinfandel is often considered to be an accomplishment for winemakers to make a superior wine with such old vines. Be careful though! The term “old vine” is not protected by laws and guidelines. It can be used as a marketing term, not unlike “reserve”.

Trivia Fact!...Primitivo
Primitivo is an Italian varietal that has remarkable similarity to Zinfandel. In fact, both grapes have had DNA traced back to the same varietal that originated in Croatia, as explained before. So when you see a Primitivo…try it out! It may be very similar to the Zinfandel you know and love.

General Flavor Profile of Zinfandel
• Rich and dark in color
• Medium to high tannins
• Generally higher alcohol content
• Wild berries, raspberry, blackberry, cherry, plums, raisins, jam, candied fruit
• Spice and black pepper
• Various intensities of oak

2009 Cameron Hughes Lot 245 North Coast- 15.2% alcohol
• Aromas of pepper and cherry-berry fruit, incense, fresh flowers, and forest floor
• Fruit forward
• Chewy mouth feel
• Delivers opulence and elegance throughout the palate
• Long finish
• Won Gold medal in CA state fair 2011
Notes From Our Group: Aroma: Raspberry, tart cherry. Palate: Light-bodied, tobacco, blackberry, smoky, pepper, long finish, subtle and milder than expected from a zinfandel.

2008 Klinker Brick Old Vine Lodi- 15.8% alcohol
• Loaded aromas of crushed blackberries, fresh strawberries, cherries, plums, smokey black pepper, and toasty oak
• Explosive fruit
• Complex and bold
• Well balanced and has a silky smooth texture
• On the palate there are layers of dark fruits, sweet vanilla and spice,
• Full bodied with a velvety mouth feel and supple tannins.
• Smooth, long, lingering finish.
Notes From Our Group: Aroma: Bacon! Smoked meat, beef jerky, mesquite. Palate: Jammy, blackberry, plum, blueberry, well-balanced, heat, white pepper, does not taste "hot" (despite the higher alcohol), vanilla, silky, long lingering finish...another favorite!

Point to Ponder...
As you sip wine this month, consider what you have learned tonight. Have you ever encountered a wine that is not your favorite to sip on alone, but changes dramatically with food? Keep on practicing, and try new things!

Happy Sipping!

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